đż Giarre and Beyond: Discovering the Agricultural Heart of Sicily
Between Mount Etna and the Ionian Sea lies a lesser-known Sicily â a land of citrus groves, lava stones, olive trees shaped by the wind, and villages where time slows down. This is the Sicily that doesnât make it to the glossy travel brochures, but the one that stays in your heart.
A land of roots, not routes
Just a few minutes inland from the Riviera dei Ciclopi, the hills of Giarre, Santa Venerina, and San Giovanni Montebello open up like a forgotten storybook. The roads are narrow, the stone walls are ancient, and the scent of lemon blossoms and wood-fired bread greets you at every curve.
This is not a Sicily of luxury resorts. Itâs one of family-run vineyards, hand-tended orchards, and people who still call the land by its old names. Itâs the perfect place to understand what it means to grow things slowly â with patience, respect, and a bit of stubbornness.
The rhythms of rural life
In this part of Sicily, the seasons still dictate life. Youâll find farmers working volcanic soil that gives unique depth to local wines like Nerello Mascalese or Carricante â grapes born from lava and sea breeze. The Strade del Vino dellâEtna offer a wonderful way to explore these wine routes at a relaxed pace.
Markets here donât cater to tourists. Theyâre filled with real produce, real smells, and real conversations. Visit Macchia di Giarre on a weekday morning and youâll see locals chatting over baskets of zucchini flowers, or debating which bakery has the best âpane cunzatoâ.
A new beginning for others, too
Itâs in these lands â rural, gentle, alive â that we dream of creating a space not only for people, but for animals rescued from cruelty. While we havenât yet settled on the exact location, somewhere between Giarre and Acireale we hope to build a sanctuary: a safe haven for donkeys, goats, sheep, and cats who were born into the wrong story.
This future sanctuary will be called Sotto la Panca â âUnder the Benchâ. Because sometimes, life begins in the humblest of places.
Slow Sicily, the real one
So if youâre looking for the real Sicily, donât stop at the coast. Head inland, even just a few kilometers. Wander through Santa Venerina, sip a coffee with pistachio cream in Mangano, or enjoy a sunset walk through San Leonardello.
And when you look around, remember: this is not a postcard. This is Sicily, alive â and still growing.
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