🪨 From Acicastello to Acitrezza: A Perfect Day Along the Riviera dei Ciclopi

here’s a stretch of coastline just north of Catania that feels like it was carved by myth and memory. Lava cliffs, tiny fishing boats, volcanic rock islands rising from the sea—this is the Riviera dei Ciclopi, where time slows and Sicily reveals her most poetic side.

I know this place well. I grew up in Acitrezza. And even now, every time I return, I feel like I’ve never really left.

🌊 Acitrezza: The Village of Legends and Mornings by the Sea

In Acitrezza, nothing has really changed. The boats still rock gently in the port. The sun still hits the Faraglioni at just the right angle. And you can still start your day like we did as teenagers—on a motorbike, headed to breakfast by the sea.

We used to go for granita and brioche at the Bar I Faraglioni or Bar Mitos, both with panoramic views of the sea and the Cyclopean Isles.

Imagine spooning almond or lemon granita while watching the first fishermen return with their catch. That’s what summer mornings looked like back then—and they still do.

⚓ A Town Made of Lava and Legends

According to Homer’s Odyssey, this is where Polyphemus, the Cyclops, threw giant boulders at Ulysses as he escaped across the sea. Those boulders? The Faraglioni, the black volcanic rocks rising just offshore.

But mythology doesn’t stop there. Local lore tells of the river god Aci, in love with the sea nymph Galatea and killed by a jealous Cyclops. His blood became the many towns that start with “Aci”—Aci Castello, Aci Trezza, Aci Sant’Antonio…

Even today, this coastline seems charged with the energy of those old stories—especially during the Festa di San Giovanni, when boats parade in the bay and Giovanni the blonde fisherman dives from the Madonnina rock in a beloved ritual of courage and faith.

🐚 What to Do in One Perfect Day

Morning

• Start with granita and brioche at Bar I Faraglioni or Bar Mitos, both with outdoor seating and stunning sea views

• Walk along the promenade to the little port and admire the boats

• Visit the Museo Casa del Nespolo, dedicated to Verga’s novel I Malavoglia, which takes place right here

Midday

• Pay a local fisherman €3–5 to take you by boat to the tiny Isola Lachea, a protected marine reserve with lizards, birds, and views you’ll never forget

• Swim among lava rocks and sunbathe on the flat stones—just like we did growing up

Evening

• Book a table at La Cambusa del Capitano, right at the edge of the village. It’s quiet, romantic, and close enough to hear the sea

• Other wonderful local spots:

  • Trattoria da Federico: simple, authentic, generous

  • Ristorante Pizzeria Lachea: fresh seafood and great atmosphere

Back in the day, we used to have dinner at Café de Mar, a landmark for locals, right on the water. For us, it was the go-to place after a summer day spent on a scooter, swimming and laughing until the sun went down.

🔗 Related Reads from Sicilian NQ

• Etna: Wine, Lava, and Legend — for more on the volcano shaping this coastline

• The Legend of Colapesce — the boy who dove under Sicily to hold it up

• From Manchester to Catania: Travel Like a Local — planning your trip from the UK

💡 Tips for Travelers

• 🧭 Getting there: Easy day trip from Catania by car or bus (AST line to Acitrezza or Acicastello)

• 🌊 Don’t forget: water shoes! Lava rocks can be sharp

• 📸 When to visit: June to September, for warm sea and festive atmosphere

• 💬 Try this: Ask your fisherman about the isola. He’ll probably tell you more myths than a museum guide

✨ One Day, a Lifetime of Memories

Aci Castello and Aci Trezza are more than postcard-perfect—they’re made of real people, real legends, and real flavors.

Even now, after years away, I still picture the view from that breakfast table. The smell of salt and lemon. The sound of the waves against the rocks. The laughter of friends. The feeling that Sicily is always waiting for you—exactly where you left it.